Tag Archives: cheap travel

Indonesia Part 2 – Lombok and Gili

Upon our return from Ubud, we spent a few days at a camp on the beach continuing our quest to learn to surf as well as doing some of the touristy things that Bali had to offer. One of the tourist attractions was amazing and another was a bit of a disappointment.

Back to Pro Surf in Kuta Beach

Back to Pro Surf in Kuta Beach

Let’s start with the enjoyable attraction. Bali has a zoo, a really nice zoo! Hobo L and Hobo M are huge animal lovers we booked, “A Night at the Zoo.” … pretty self explanatory. We arrived around 5 and the first thing we did was visit a few animals that weren’t nocturnal. This included a giant, ugly clawed bird and a group of gorgeous elephants you could feed.

Evil bird plotting his escape.

Evil bird plotting his escape.

Can you tell I'm not an animal person?

Can you tell I’m not an animal person?

There is usually a group of orangutans but they were ironically on Christmas display at the BeachWalk mall in Kuta, a 10 minute walk from our surf camp. We also got the chance to hold/have awkwardly perched on us a yellow boa constrictor and a bearcat.

My "Get this Thing off me" smile

My “Get this Thing off me” smile

Hobo M braving the boa.

Hobo M braving the boa.

After ordering our choices for dinner we went on a walking night safari which was pretty cool because we saw all the nocturnal animals awake and active. We got to feed the monkeys and the Bali deer and see lots of other animals that are native to both Indonesia and surrounding Asian countries. After a few months of very basic meals, dinner was a highlight. Fresh arugala salad (that had to have been washed because I digested it properly!), a large steak dinner, and lemon tart pie for dessert. All topped off with an ice cold BinTang beer. While eating we could gaze at the nearby lions in their open concept cage or laugh at the trained porcupine that was running around by our feet. As our after dinner entertainment we witnessed a traditional dance followed by fire dancing! The whole event was very professional and was money well spent.

Mythological Indonesian Dance.

Mythological Indonesian Dance.

The next day was a bit of a disappointment. We went “White Water Rafting” down the Ayung River. I was really excited for this because I absolutely LOVE WhiteWater Rafting! I was aware that after rafting some of the best rapids in the world in Zambia, I might find these a little tame, but the Ayung River rafting was an insult to White Water Rafting. “Babbling Brook Float” would have been a more accurate name. Upon arrival we were given helmets and life jackets (not that we needed them) and essentially floated down a creek with a few wavy patches. This rafting was so pathetic that at points the bottom of our raft would actually get stuck on the rocks below.   These were Class .5 rapids at the most.

Good friends make any situation better.  :)

Good friends make any situation better. 🙂

I’m really lucky I was with Hobo L and Hobo M because they saw how disappointed I was so they cracked jokes all the way down the river to cheer me up. The most exercise we got all day was hiking up the stairs at the end of the river float. There were three tiny highlights of the tour. One was the small gator that we saw swimming close to our raft, the other was the scenery that looked like it belonged in Jurassic Park, and the third was the buffet lunch that followed the “rafting”.

Floating down the River because we thought our guide was joking about the gators.

Floating down the River because we thought our guide was joking about the gators.

So after a win and a bust in Bali we cabbed it to the airport and bought a $34 ticket to the island of Lombok. The delayed plane sounded like a lawn mower and shook like an Earthquake but we made it! I would imagine that Lombok is what Bali was 20-30 years ago. The scenery is amazing and the island isn’t too built up yet. There were few tourists and it had a very laid back vibe to it. We scored a stunning hotel with a perfect location for a sweet price. The day after we arrived we decided we wanted to explore the island. What better way to do that than to rent $5 scooters! We were a little hesitant at first for a few reasons. A) We didn’t know where we were going. B) We weren’t sure how well maintained these scooters were. C) In Indonesia they drive on the left side of the road. D) Hobo L had never driven a scooter or motorcycle before. E) The helmets were in about the same condition as a 1940’s war helmet would have been.   But those were all minor details, we’re capable women!

My sweet scooter ride.

My sweet scooter ride.

We hopped on the scooters and carefully pulled out into the honking traffic. We slowly made our way out of town and up the hills of the winding roads. We didn’t get too far because we knew we had to stop for some fuel. We pulled off on the side of the road at a stand that looked like it was selling vodka bottles full of urine. But no, that is how the locals buy and sell their gas. We purchased a few litres and set off again, slowly gaining confidence and speed.

Indonesian gas station

Indonesian gas station

The twisting hills following the coastline were stunning. It was difficult to stay concentrated on the road with such amazing views distracting us. We drove for hours and hours occasionally stopping to consult a map or ask the friendly locals where the heck we were. Our goal was to find Mount Rinjani which unfortunately we could not climb because the wet season had started. After one last piece of broken English directional advice we started our uphill scooter ascent feeling the weather get cooler and wetter as we rose in altitude. We drove as far as we could and after an inconclusive cloudy view of the mountain we made our way back down trying to remember the roads we had taken to get to our destination.

Hobo M exhibiting her navigational skills.

Hobo M exhibiting her navigational skills.

After hours on the road with no issues our confidence had skyrocketed. The trip back to the town of Senggigi, where we were staying, resembled a glorified go-kart race. There were no speed limit signs and just like the locals, we were pulling up behind cars and other scooters and laying on our horns until they let us pass. To the scooter owners surprise we returned the bikes at the latest possible time and told him that the three of us gals had made it all the way to the mountain and back. The only near injury we had was when a coconut flew of a truck and smoked Hobo M’s backpack. All in all, a solid day.

Stunning coastal views.

Stunning coastal views.

The next day we embraced the health and wellness scene that Lombok is known for. Our morning started with laps in our 50 meter infinity pool followed by smoothies, omelets, and bacon wrapped veggies at the complimentary hotel breakfast. We strolled to the beach then scouted out the best place for a massage. Our hour long incredible massage cost $6 and it was very professional. I also got my toenails and fingernails painted upping my spa bill to a whopping $8. Once feeling refined and relaxed we ate an authentic Italian dinner at a restaurant on the beach. It’s good that we had a day to unwind because the following day was a travel day again. We haggled hard for a taxi but had no luck and eventually caught a ride with some locals to get the harbor front. From there we bought a speedboat ticket that took us to Gili Trawangan Island.

The High Class Hobo and her belongings waiting to board the speedboat.

The High Class Hobo and her belongings waiting to board the speedboat.

There are many Gili Islands off the coast of Lombok but the three most popular ones are Gili Air (the laid back island), Gili Meno (the honeymoon island) and Gili Trawangan (the party island). Gili Trawangan was beautiful but upon closer inspection parts of it looked used and abused… you could tell it was the party island. The main strip was fun. It had a plethora of bars, restaurants, dive spots, and hostels or small hotels. The roads were dirt or sand and no motor traffic was allowed so everyone rented bikes for their stay or took a horse drawn cart to their destination.

Transportation on Gili G

Transportation on Gili G

We stayed off the main drag but still on the beach on the North part of the island. Once settled, we opted for a snorkeling tour which also took us to the other two Gili islands. Although the tour ended up being slightly sketchy, the snorkeling was the best snorkeling I have ever experienced. The coral was still relatively intact and there were so many types of fish that I never even knew existed!  We went to three different dive spots in the warm turquoise water. At one point we followed a graceful turtle until it disappeared into the darker blue of the deep waters. We literally spent hours floating around looking at the different colours and shapes of all fish! DSCF0968

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After lunch we headed to our last dive spot but the winds and rain had suddenly started. Our boat forged ahead through the massive waves with people literally hanging on and letting out ashamed little yelps or screams when the boat rocked sideways to the point where you were afraid of falling out. A few of us tried to snorkel at the last spot but it was difficult because the waves would wash over you and fill your snorkel with water leaving you to breath in the salty H2O. Happy to be back on land we spent the remainder of the afternoon relaxing by the calm pool at our hotel. DSCF1048 (2)  We ventured into town on our bikes for dinner and enjoyed some delightful Mexican food. After dinner it was an adventure attempting to ride our bikes back to the hotel in the dark. Since the North part of the island is not very developed the “roads” are still beach sand … not ideal for riding a bike. Instead we decided to cut through the interior of the island spotted with palm trees, local houses, fallen palm leaves, and some wandering cows. There are NO lights and the paths are not exactly easy to follow. After some unintentional off-roading and a near fall after hitting a tough coconut we safely made it back to the hotel. The next day we dedicated to exploring the island. The interior paths of the islands were much easier to navigate in the day time. We saw the huge corporate developments starting to build up the west side of the island. We saw a pile of plastic water bottles that must have been at least 10 m x 10 m. I have no idea how they dispose of all the waste. The island wasn’t equipped to deal with the consumption of all the island party-goers. It was actually quite sad.

Imagine cycling through this in the pitch black!

Imagine cycling through this in the pitch black!

We decided to end our stay on Gili Trawangan by doing a bit of a market pub crawl. This basically consisted of us wandering down the strip and into the market eateries trying to find the cheapest beers and appetizers. The night ended with a beach walk all the way home to our hotel.

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The following day we bought speedboat tickets back to Bali. The boat represented the culture of the island. They had a sun deck, loud speakers blasting out dance music, and of course, beer. Unfortunately, it rained on our parade (literally) and most people took cover below the sun deck. Hobo M and I stayed on top, the rain was warm so it didn’t bother us too much except for the sting of it pelting us in the face. It was worth staying above deck though because when our speedboat came to an abrupt slow down we had the perfect view of a huge whale just meters from our boat! It surfaced, blew the water out of its blow hole, paused as if investigating us for a minute, and then disappeared again back into the depths of the Ocean. Back at trusty Pro Surf in Bali we prepared for the sad departure of Hobo L and planned the last leg of our Indonesian journey. Stayed tuned for Indonesia Part 3 – Java!

Just in case you were looking to rent a spear.

Just in case you were looking to rent a speargun.

Gooood Mooorrrrrnnning VIETNAM!

From South Africa I had a one hour layover in Abu Dhabi and then headed straight to Ho Chi Minh City (aka: Saigon). After getting over some issues with my Visa (apparently you need a letter from your embassy to travel to Vietnam), I was given an “emergency visa” at a price that hurt my little hobo heart. Once in a cab and heading towards my hostel there was one and one thing only I noticed about Vietnam: MOTORBIKES! This place was swarming with scooters that weaved in and out of each other in NO order whatsoever and somehow they didn’t crash. If Vietnam has any traffic laws at all they must be thrown out the window the moment people get their licenses because it was absolute chaos. It felt like I was playing frogger every time I wanted to cross the street.

Cars are taxed 300% so everyone in Vietnam owns small motorbikes.

Cars are taxed 300% so everyone in Vietnam owns small motorbikes.

After sleeping in the following day I decided to wander the streets in search of a place to do my laundry. I took everything in the hopes that the grubbiness of camping for 40 days could finally be washed out of my clothes. I also found the backpacker road which had some great spots to eat and some fun shops. This leads me to the second major thing I noticed about Vietnam: A HOBO’S PARADISE! This place was incredibly cheap…. like mind blowingly cheap. My entire 11 days came to under $500 and I wasn’t particularly skimping on things.

So after I delighted in the prices of Vietnam my next mission was to plan what I was going to do during my stay in Saigon. I opted for the War Museum one day and the CuChi Tunnels another day. I would have liked to have taken a trip out to the Mekong Delta to see the floating markets but I didn’t feel I had enough time.

The War Museum cost $1 and in my opinion it was very graphic and very anti-American. I didn’t know too much about the Vietnam War before I travelled to Saigon but between the War Museum and the CuChi Tunnels I feel like I now have a better understanding. The War Museum was littered with pictures of people who had been deformed due to ingesting the chemical Agent Orange. The photos were really sad and the captions pointed the finger of blame squarely at the Americans. They believe that the use of Agent Orange and other chemicals was a war crime. I’m still unclear as to why the USA joined the Vietnam War. Perhaps any sort of growing communism was a major threat at that time? After spending a few more days in Ho Chi Minh I did notice an alarming number of people with deformities which I am assuming are still side effects of Agent Orange chemicals. I also noticed people’s relief when they asked me where I was from and I said Canada. Automatically people assume I’m from the USA because of my accent and appearance. Maybe I should throw an, “Eh” in at the end of every sentence just to make people feel more comfortable.

War Museum in Saigon/Ho Chi Minh

War Museum in Saigon/Ho Chi Minh

The following day I took a tour out to the Tam Giao temple and the CuChi Tunnels. The Tam Giao religion is isolated to Vietnam. It is a combination of Buddhism, Confucianism, Mahayana, and Taoism. The reason the religion was invented was because when the French were attacking Vietnam in the late 1800’s religious places were off limits. So they created a new religion with a giant temple so they could hide in there.

Religion exclusive to Vietnam

Religion exclusive to Vietnam

The temple was interesting but the highlight of the day was the CuChi Tunnels. The Vietnamese used guerilla warfare to fight. They would work in their villages all day as civilians and at night the women would dig the tunnels and the men would fight intensely for about half an hour. The Vietnamese were extremely resourceful people; they made traps out of anything and everything. Most of the traps were holes dug in the ground with spikes attached to folding chairs or other household items.

Vietnamese jungle traps

Vietnamese Jungle Traps

Vietnamese Jungle Traps

Aside from the traps, the Vietnamese had a huge network of tiny tunnels. I went inside one and my hips barely fit. There was a 20 m tunnel that the tourists could crawl through but they had to double to size of it so the westerners could make it through. Even with double the size my claustrophobia kicked in so I have no idea how the Vietnamese handled it. Since the network of tunnels became so intricate air was sometimes sparse. They disguised air holes as giant termite mounds and they would surround the air holes as well as the entrances to the tunnels with chili pepper flakes so the army dogs would lose the scent of humans.

My guide stepped on the lid as a joke while I was down there.

My guide stepped on the lid as a joke while I was down there.

Aside from using nature to create weapons, the Vietnamese would disassemble grenades or bombs that didn’t explode so they could reuse the explosives inside for their own homemade weapons. These people were survivors! Another highlight of the CuChi Tunnels was my chance to shoot an AK-47. I felt slightly guilty about how much I enjoyed shooting it, but it was really fun!

Hit the target, Daddy-obo taught me well!

Hit the target, Daddy-obo taught me well!

After some more fabulous and cheap Vietnamese food and a visit to the night market I made my way from Ho Chi Minh to Hanoi which is in the North of Vietnam. It was here that my friend Leigh and I met up at the airport. We stayed for $12 each in a fantastic hotel in the centre of Hanoi with a balcony and a delicious breakfast. The lady at the front desk was amazing in helping us to plan out our time in Hanoi and the surrounding area. First we opted to go on an overnight cruise to Halong Bay. The next day we drove for almost 4 hours to get to the harbor where we boarded our vessel. Our ship was very nice and modern and it only had 12 rooms. We took a scenic tour out to the bay admiring the beautiful ancient mountain tops that peeked out of the water after being flooded years ago.

Would have been more scenic with the sun, but still beautiful.

Would have been more scenic with the sun, but still beautiful.

When we arrived at Halong Bay we took smaller boats out to floating village. The people here and in the surrounding area literally lived on floating homes or in some cases, in their bamboo boats. We went for a tour in the little bamboo boats all around the town. We saw the school and houses and the spot where everyone comes to sell their fish. I tried rowing the bamboo boat and it was tough! What was even more embarrassing were the locals rowing by using their feet and doing a better job steering the boat than I was.

Attempting to row the bamboo boat.

Attempting to row the bamboo boat.

Later we docked at a beach where we could climb up to the top of one of the mountain tops to see the surrounding view. We ended our day with a 7 course meal traditionally served to royalty. The presentation of the food in Vietnam was so intricite. One grilled fish was covered in a “net” that had been carved out of one entire carrot. Our spring rolls were stuck into pineapples shaped like little birds. They were very artistic with their food presentation. Following dinner there was the option to do some less than okay karaoke or go squid fishing. We opted for the squid fishing but didn’t catch anything. The next morning we had the option to do Tai Chi before breakfast and then we went to visit a cave full of giant stalactites and stalagmites. It would have been nice if the weather had been sunnier for us but it was still a scenic and relaxing few days.

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All the decorations were made with fruits or vegetables.

A net carved out of a single carrot.

A net carved out of a single carrot.

When we got back to Hanoi we didn’t have much down time because we had to hop on the sleeper train to head to our next adventure; a trek in Sapa! Sapa is in the North of Vietnam only a few kilometers from the border of China. Many of the Sapa people descend from tribes that lived there years ago. They make their living by growing rice and weaving hemp clothing dyed indigo with plants found in the area. If I had one word to describe the trek I would say, “MUDDY”. My first hint should have been when they offered to rent us rubber boots for $1 a day. That was one of the best investments I made this trip!

Us Canadians didn't fall once!  It was just like walking on ice.

Us Canadians didn’t fall once! It was just like walking on ice.

We were followed for 7-10 km through the muddy paths and rice paddies by some Sapa Sisters. Basically these are women from Sapa who follow you all day and assist you through the mud if you need help in the hopes that you will buy something from them at the end of the day. One lady was so old and wrinkly I have no idea how she made the trek into the middle of nowhere then out again every single day in the mud. They were very strong women!

The High Class Hobo with some Sapa Sisters

The High Class Hobo with some Sapa Sisters

We got to our homestay around 4 that afternoon. We took turns showering then enjoyed a fantastic home cooked Vietnamese meal followed by way too much rice wine (also homemade). It’s rude to turn down a drink in the Vietnamese culture but the rice wine tasted awful! We got really creative with ways of discarding our shots so we didn’t have to take them.

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The following day we continued our stroll through local villages and paths leading to remote waterfalls. The scenery was so beautiful and lush and our local guide Mya entertained us with stories everywhere we went. After our lunch overlooking the misty hills we drove back to the town of Sapa. Leigh and I opted to spend our few hours of free time getting $10 massages. To our surprise they played children’s nursery songs paired with Gangnam style in the background. How soothing!

Strolling through a Sapa village.

Strolling through a Sapa village.

The rolling hills and rice paddies.

The rolling hills and rice paddies.

Before we knew it we were back on the sleeper train. Now, I didn’t describe the sleeper train before so I’ll take a second to touch on that now. Picture a train from the 1950’s with the interior décor of the 1970’s (I’m talking major wood paneling and orange everywhere). Each compartment has 4 beds. The beds are held up by chains attached to the wall. So you have to decide carefully, “If this chain were to snap, what would be worse? Falling from the top bunk onto someone else or not falling off your bunk but potentially being squished by a stranger falling from above?” These are the types of questions I’ve had to ask myself over the past 70 days of traveling, haha. There is no spot to store your bags on the train so you sleep curled up with them. You also need to be a semi-pro gymnast in order to vault yourself from the tiny foothold sticking out from the wall onto the top bunk. Sleeping on the train feels like sleeping in a hammock, it sort of rocks you to sleep. That is until it squeals to a stop to let people off.   Anyway, we survived the sleeper train (twice) and made it back to Hanoi. From there we had a quick shower, repacked our bags and hopped on a flight to our 24 hour layover in Singapore.